Characterization and Localization of a Cheese Georegion Using Edaphic Criteria (Jura Mountains, France)

¹ Laboratoire de Biologie et Ecophysiologie, Université de Franche-Comté, UFR des Sciences et Techniques, 5030 Besançon Cedex, France
² Comité Interprofessionnel du Gruyère de Comté (CIGC), Avenue de la Résistance, 39801 Poligny Cedex, France

Comté cheese, made from raw whole milk with local starter lactic acid bacteria, has been manufactured in the traditional manner in the French part of the Jura mountains since the 13th century. Its flavor vary not only by factors such as grass and hay, but also by geographical production sites. Connoisseurs are able to identify the origin of a certain number of cheeses, which raises the question of whether one can speak of georegions (terroirs) or specific geographical areas as in the case of wine. A new method of large-scale cartography (agro-pedological units) covering 20 cheese cooperatives provided a statistical comparison showing the different edaphic sectors. A sensory analysis of 106 cheeses from these 20 cooperatives (summer or winter cheese with 3 or 6 mo of ripening) has demonstrated Comté georegions corresponding to 85% of the edaphic sectors. Thus, these sectors are equivalent to cheese georegions that are natural entities represented synthetically by agro-pedological units that have their own vegetation and their own specific type of Comté cheese.

Key Words: georegion • Comté cheese • cartography • flavors

Submitted on March 1, 1999
Accepted on February 1, 2000